Carcassonne Refinement
The picture postcard perfection of Carcassonne’s medieval citadel, designated as UNESCO World Heritage Site, is an image of life in South West France that we have all seen.
Amongst the bustling streets crammed full of restaurants and tourist shops, there are two venues that I would encourage visitors to consider: one a bar and one a restaurant.
Firstly, a tranquil and beautifully run bar set in an aged garden with attentive staff within the confines of Hôtel de la Cité. The images on the hotel’s web site do not really give a positive impression. However, undaunted by these unrepresentative impressions, we were looking for a drink and it seemed logical that the plushest hotel in the area would have a decent bar. We were not disappointed.
Perched on the walls of the citadel, at the rear of the hotel, was close to an acre of land given over to the bar and outdoor restaurant. Mature trees provided cover for guests to relax in comfortably luscious chairs and enjoy the moment of perfectly prepared drinks.
Selecting a bar-stool height table at the far end of the garden, close to the chief barman and his impeccably dressed team, we were able to watch proceedings and the varied audience who were enjoying a pre-dinner aperitif during this warm August evening: an excellent ‘people-watching’ opportunity.
Then to dinner. Comte Roger has been run by a husband and wife team for the last twenty-two years. Why does this restaurant not have a Michelin Star? Too informal a setting I suspect because the quality of food certainly deserves one, as does the first class service. No online booking, so a call is needed to secure a table several days in advance. I popped in on the morning we had booked dinner and requested a table in the middle of their outside courtyard.
A foie gras based Tarte Tatin and Tartre de Gambas were chosen for starters and did they hit the mark. Basing the foie gras starter within the classical base of a tarte tatin was truly inspirational. As for the gambas, food-envy emerged once a mouthful had been taken.
Three fish dishes and a cassoulet were the choices for mains. Wonderful artistry was deployed to present the fish and the murmurs of delight as they were sampled spoke volumes. I had decided that the traditional cassoulet route was needed, and again it took this regional dish to a level that had not been reached in other establishments.
On our travels around this ancient location, Chardonnay from Limoux was the perfect white, and the plethora of appellations using the traditional blends in this region of Carignan, Syrah, Grenache Noir and Cinsault worked very well. All drinking well even though the majority of the reds were less than five years old.
If your travels take you to this location, then these two establishments will deliver memorable moments.
Given the value the red wines we have sampled, then a missive will be despatched over the coming weeks as I search for a few items from UK merchants and retailers to accompany autumn dishes that will grace our tables in the not too distant future.
