Vertical Chevalier
Following on from my earlier missive regarding the marriage of roast spring lamb and Cabernet Sauvignon over Easter, a friend and I had acquired a selection of vintages from Domaine de Chevalier, the Pessac Léognan-based château in the Graves region of Bordeaux.
In 1986 a new communal district was created within Graves, based on the districts of Pessac and Léognan: the best soils, very similar to those of the Médoc, although the depth of gravel is more variable, and contains all the classed growths of the region.
We had both visited this property a couple of times over the last few years, and every time we departed from a tasting we concluded that, in relative terms to other similar Bordeaux château in the same quality spectrum, Chevalier represented exceptional value.
The vintages acquired were 2010, 2014, 2016, 2017, and 2108: a couple ready for considering over the coming week, and a few for putting aside for Easters to come.
Gathering together a coterie of mates, a vertical tasting took place over dinner.
We’re they all superb? Yes.
All very different? Yes.
All represent excellent, relatively speaking, value? Yes.
Available from a number of merchants? Yes.
So which to choose? Let me try and drop these wines into four categories:
1 - Readily Available: Château Domaine de Chevalier 2016, Grande Cru Classé de Graves
Waitrose - £80.00
Waitrose are selling the 2016 @ £80 per bottle. (The average price from a very well-known merchant is £112 and a broker’s price has it on at £129). Therefore, an order placed today would almost certainly be ready for collection the next day from your local store. 2016 was an exceptional vintage, and although this wine is very young, decanting it an hour or so before introducing your senses to the fragrant nose and rich, full palate, would be perfect to accompany a dish of roast lamb. The consensus in the room was that it is perhaps a tad more ‘Californian’ in style than a classic Bordeaux. There was an opulence here that was unquestionably a really delicious wine, but atypical of a Cabernet Sauvignon dominant blend from this region. However, it’s a great wine!
2 - Unexpected: Château Domaine de Chevalier 2017, Grande Cru Classé de Graves
Berrys - Various prices
Given the vagaries of the 2017 vintage, this wine shone. To read the vintage charts and summaries from this year does not fill one with expectations. But this wine is a perfect example of how generalisations can be totally misleading when a very skilled winemaker has the opportunity to demonstrate their skills and create magic. As this missive is published, there are 3 magnums available from Berrys at a duty-paid price of a drop under £150 / magnum. As a special treat, this would not disappoint, and it will comfortably age for another decade. There was also a double-magnum for £250 In-Bond.
3 - Drinking Today: Château Domaine de Chevalier 2010, Grande Cru Classé de Graves
Berrys - Various prices - circa £78
The most obvious purchase would be the 2010. As one member of our ranks over dinner stated, “already into its stride and utterly delicious”. It does somewhat makes its presence felt straight from the bottle and has the staying power to go on into the late 2030s. Two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot making up the balance. Structure, extraordinary depth, length, richness and exemplary craftsmanship. The reviews from a collection of the world’s best-known wine writers speaks volumes. Yes I know, eighty notes for a bottle of wine is on the high side, but in relative terms for a top-notch Bordeaux from 2010, this is light.
4 - Needs Time: Château Domaine de Chevalier 2018, Grande Cru Classé de Graves
Berrys - Various prices - variable, lowest at 7pm on 31-Mar-23, £63 / bottle Duty-Paid
Everyone sang this wine’s praises. A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot, aged for approximately 18 months in oak barriques, 35% new. It has definition: energetic black and red fruits sit alongside delicate and very balanced tannins, with a hint of tobacco and a touch of oak, and then its sits, and sits, and sits ….. 2030 onwards and lasting until 2050.
The Pudding Wine: Château Suduiraut 2006, 1er Cru Classé, Sauternes
Berrys - £24.95
We finished the evening with half-bottles of Suduiraut 2006. Classified in 1855 as a 1er Cru Classé, the vineyards border those of d’Yquem. Berrys are still selling these half-bottles for £24.95. Not only is it delicious, but it is also absurdly good value.
STOP PRESS
Earlier this week, I was at the Jeroboam’s Claret tasting with 100 wines on show and one wine really shone: the second wine from St-Julien’s Château Ducru Beaucaillou’s, La Croix de Beaucaillou 2020 - £205 In Bond for 6 bottles, or approximately £44 per bottle Duty Paid. With 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot and 3% Petit Verdot, it still needs a year or two but will stride forth until mid-2030s. Just an excellent Claret at a very reasonable price.
La Croix de Beaucaillou 2020, Saint-Julien
Jeroboams - £205 In Bond - 6 bottles
