En Rama
‘Wow! I was not expecting that!’, is often the first reaction on tasting an 'En Rama' sherry. Usually from someone who would not include sherry in their drinking repertoire.
They then have a second glass, or even a third, extolling how utterly delicious this unusual sherry is and why haven't they tasted this before.
For many sherry aficionados, 'En Rama' is the pinnacle of the Fino and Manzanilla styles. As an aperitif to enjoy this summer with a collection of tapas, then little else will entice the taste buds to this level.
As Ben Howkins writes in his excellent book on the region, 'delicacies much sought after by foodies and wine enthusiasts.'
En Rama translates as 'raw'. A wine that has seen virtually zero intervention - no filtration, no clarification, no stabilisation - since leaving the barrel. It contains an earthy richness and freshness that has a pronounced thrill to lift the senses and present the palate with a wine that is mesmerising.
The concept has been around for years, but it was not until Gonzalez Byass launched their 'En Rama' around a dozen years ago that the style suddenly became available outside a very limited circle. Historically, for most consumers, the only way to sample these minuscule offerings was in a bodega in the region.
It's difficult to draw exact comparisons with other wines. In many ways 'En Ramas' are like a Comtes Lafon's Meursault from an excellent vintage that has had more than ample time to evolve in bottle: it contains a high degree of richly defined characteristics not often found in many other White Burgundies. It's not a fair nor direct comparison, but flagging it does just highlight the intense expectation of the flavours arriving on the palate.
There is depth in these wines. Complexity edged with vibrance and layers of flavours that sit on the plate for a long time. Unfashionable, perhaps; misunderstood, unquestionably; maligned, possibly. However, for the relatively small price, I can only recommend you put your toe in the water and explore what these bottles have to offer.
Tanners of Shrewsbury and The Wine Society are offering En Rama wines from the 2023 release. I'm enjoying them both. In my second order from Tanners, both were ordered again, as well as a rather sumptuous Tawny Port, but more on that in later note. Serve the En Rama slightly chilled.
Tio Pepe En Rama Fino de Jerez, Gonzalez Byass - 2023 release
Tanners - £17.50 - Wine Society - £15.50
Light golden colour. Beguiling complexity. Citrus, nuts, dried fruits and flowers on the nose. The palate has a rich green apple acidity; bone, bone dry; layers of different nuts come forward, but it has a creamy texture with a lime twist on the finish. Alongside hard cheeses, pistachios, plump olives, and rich salami this works to serious perfection. Then the length, how this trails and trails.
La Gitana En Rama Manzanilla de Barrameda, Bodegas Hidalgo - 2023 release
Tanners - £17.50
Bodegas Hidalgo was established by the Hidalgo family over 200 years ago and is still owned and run by the eighth generation today. They use only grapes grown in their own vineyards to make their wines. Bright lemon in colour. There is an element of brine here with the proximity to the sea. Open and strongly aromatic on the nose. Chalky tanginess on the palate, elegance, lime fruit, complex layers of deep minerals and a strong desire to have another glass.
Fino and Manzanilla sherries are both made from a single grape: Palomino. The primary difference between the two is that Finos are aged in Jerez, and Manzanillas in Sanlucar de Barrameda, on the coast. Identical production process, just a slightly different location: 16 miles inland.
Ben’s excellent books on Sherry can be found at Adacémie du Vin Library - £30 - an excellent present for those who love this region, or for those wishing to explore the vinous delights it has to offer.
