Lisboeta
Behind the green, unobtrusive facade, in a street festooned with watering holes, sits a culinary delight.
About a year ago, all the restaurant critics had been to Lisboeta and were singing the praises of the latest creation from internationally acclaimed chef, Nuno Mendes. Located in Soho’s Charlotte Street, on the site where L’Etoile sat for many decades, it is definitely worth a visit.
Earlier this month we headed there with a couple of friends, it was our fourth visit over the last 12 months, to remind ourselves just how much we had enjoyed the previous visit and debating if we would depart oozing about the deliciousness of the offering yet again. We did.
The menu is a tad off-piste, perhaps heading into deep powder. As Dent stated in her Guardian review, ‘Mendes’ restaurants are always a wild and educational ride’.
For those not yet lucky enough to visit this innovative restaurant, it is effectively Portuguese tapas of an interesting diversity and range. Be bold and select the somewhat obscure items, enquire of the charming and immensely helpful staff what they would recommend, and be delighted by what is placed before you. The menu is tight, so go with at least a party of four, and select as many items as your appetite can manage. You will not be disappointed.
To start, we had the Goan-spiced pork pies; Coombeshead Farmbread with whipped pork lard; and scallops. As mains we shared wild mushrooms; cuttlefish; sirloin and cod. All delivered in a wonderfully unusual format that captivated the taste-buds and left you wanting for more. Your focus is on the food and queries arise as to how the chef has created these flavours, textures and really wonderful combinations that are outside the conventional. Quite a long way outside.
Drinks are also a challenge as the wine list is almost exclusively Portuguese. However, while studying the options, indulge in a Negroni. I’m not sure why these are a significant cut above virtually any other Negroni option I have tried around the world, but they are exquisite. Also, the White Port & Tonic might not sound a starting point for an aperitif, but it tasted wonderfully refreshing, cleansing the palate for the excitement ahead.
Wine lists in restaurants are a constantly shifting itinerary. We tried two wines last week that if they ar there when you visit, then I would whole-heartedly recommend:
White - Luis Pato, Vinhas Velhas 2022
Red - Casa Ferreirinha, Callabriga 2020
It is a restaurant where you want to experiment. Looking at other dishes on neighbouring tables you want to try them all. Going back again, there is so much to explore!
Lisboeta, 30 Charlotte Street, London W1 - 020 3830 9888 - lisboeta.co.uk
