Weekend In Paris
It was pre-Covid since the last outing to Paris - far too long - so a weekend was arranged.
1 - Hotel: SO/ Paris
Therefore, the search for one of the new hotels seemed a good starting point. It was the CN Traveller that flagged up the SO/ Hotel in the 4eme arrondissement, south-west of La Place de Bastille, and within the confines of the ‘Arsenal’.
A short walk from Le Marais and Place des Vosges; 100 meters from the river and access to the eastern part of Île de la Cité; about a 30 minute walk to the busy centre of Boulevard St Germain; and 40 minutes to Musée de l'Orangerie along the river bank.
It’s smart, colourfully vibrant, young with a very professional ensemble managing the show. Wonderful views across Paris, and an excellent bar that was busy, busy, busy. Rooms were relaxing and comfortable: spacious, well-designed with truly massive beds. Would return without a moment’s hesitation. View above is from our bedroom on 12th floor.
SO/ Paris Hotel - 10 rue Agrippa d'Aubigné, 75004 Paris
16th floor bar has great views across the city.
2 - Old-school: Brasserie Lipp
It is probably a decade since a visitation to this esteemed establishment had taken place. Reassuringly, it had not changed. Almost locked into a time capsule, walking through the door created a sense of delight that this well-honed establishment was still delivering the goods. Noisy, bustling and vibrant on a Friday evening, it was like pulling on an old and much-loved jumper: one knew the form.
The menu still contained the classics, plus a host of specials, and the attentive staff had a bottle of Chablis 1er Cru on our table within an instant. Tuna tartare, pâté en croûte, confit of canard, and rognons in a rich creamy sauce followed, aided by a half-bottle of Jaboulet's Crozes-Hermitage seemed to round off the evening with a quick Armagnac just to settle the account. Traditional, superbly executed food, flawless wines, excellent service and a bill for €200 seemed exceptional value.
Brasserie Lipp - 151, boulevard Saint-Germain 75006 Paris
3 - New Kid: Alluma
Down a remote street in the 11th arrondissement sits a bistro that had been reviewed by CN Traveler, 'This elegant neo-bistro has found its crowd with a vibrant ode to Levantine flavours—on and off the plate.'
The review did not do justice to this hidden gem. Israeli chef Lirin Tal and his front-of-house wife, Noa, have created a menu that is simply outstanding. There is only a tasting menu where you can opt for the 6 or 8-course option. Having walked a fair distance from the hotel, then 8 seemed the right level. The presentation, the flavours, the textures were all superb. On the evening we were there, the ceviche de crevette, tartare d'agneau, maquereau au charbon were three dishes that shone brightly alongside another five that astonished, excited and surprised the palate. The food here is a delight.
The wine list covers a small selection from France, Italy, Greece and Armenia. I quizzed the charming sommelier about the 2010 Chablis Premier Cru Vaillon from Defaix. She assured me it had just arrived and was in perfect condition: she was right. Vibrant with fresh peach flavours alongside a delicate lemon acidity it was youthful and drinking wonderfully. Red to go along with the lamb, and an Armenian wine was recommended: Sutak 2020. Made from the Karmrahyut and Haghtanak grapes, it has a deep red colour, loads of rich, black fruits supported by fine tannins and good acidity. Perfect for the lamb.
An engaging and inspired team. 8-course degustation €79. Outstanding. The informality alone in this restaurant would remove any chance of a Michelin Star, but this food is worth a trip to Paris.
Alluma - 151 Rue Saint-Maur, Paris 75011
f you do make a trip to Paris, include a visit to Eels Restaurant as well - 27 Rue d'Hauteville, 75010 Paris. Again, a slightly off-piste location but the FT's Nicholas Lander waxed lyrical about this find a couple of years ago, and he was right. We've directed many mates here over the last few years and the feedback has been exceptionally positive.
4 - Pit-Stop: Comme à Lisbonne
It might seem a tad off-beat to be recommending a Portuguese cafe while strolling through the streets of Le Marais. However, this street venue loomed into view just as a bite was needed. Two of the best toasted sandwiches that have been placed on a plate in living memory. Small wine list of Portuguese wines by the glass. If you are in the area and need sustenance, then this works.
Comme à Lisbonne - 37 Rue du Roi de Sicile, 75004 Paris
